You have just arrived in Delhi. Remnants of the historic Maharajas, festivals of spinning gypsy skirts and tales of shoppers’ galore already are beginning to lure you towards the Western desert terrain of India. The state of Rajasthan, popularly referred to as ‘The Land of Kings’ upholds a reputation for having everything that a traveller dreams of. The energetic bazaars are brightly coloured with neon saris, rippling alongside traffic jam of ambling cows, elephants and of course, our favourite hump-backed sand mammals. Predominantly a Hindu state, temples with trailing fairy-lights twinkle round every corner, while the reverberating prayers shake the bazaars. Away from the city, tigers prowl the National Parks; dry desert landscapes invite you for long camel treks, and lakes of all sizes flash in the vibrant sun.
But how do you go plan to about your road-trip? Which parts of this blue, pink and gold region hold the real magic?
Jaipur’s stunning water palace: Jal Mahal
1. Consider a Map
Many backpackers like to rock up without a plan because hey man, we’re just going with the flow. That’s how I tend to get around the world. But when you are short of time, (and there never is enough time to see everything in India), it is worth painting an idea of the journey you want to take. Especially when tackling the extravagant palette of Rajasthani colours. You don’t have to stick to it, but have it there, just in case.
Take a map and circle the places you want to visit. This doesn’t mean you have to have a guidebook, (because you are of course, a laid-back trendy traveller rather than a list-ticking tourist…) but it is useful to know where you are geographically, from time to time. Rajasthan is big, in fact one of the largest states in India. If you are coming from Delhi, then Jaipur (the capital city) might be a logical place to start. Take into account dates of festivals, best seasons and current weather forecasts when planning your journey, to avoid constantly going back and forth. It will save you a lot of time and money. Remember, unless there is a big event taking place, there is no need to book public transport far in advance. This is a road trip after all and no, you don’t have to be chasing tarmac on a motorbike or bunking out in a camper to experience it spontaneously. Buses and trains are frequently available at cheap costs and getting a ticket the night before gives you far more flexibility. So chill.
2. Try not to let the sand get in your eyes
The amount of sight-seeing in Rajasthan can be a little overwhelming. There are just so many Temples, Forts, Lake Palaces and Museums that if you try to hop to them all, you’ll probably exhaust yourself and not enjoy it. The worst thing you can do is get on a tour bus (trust me, I know). We spent a day being driven to about 10 different sites in Jaipur. Not only did we miss seeing some of the most intriguing places (for us), my enthusiasm for anything historical or cultural vanished. If you want to appreciate these sites fully, don’t go on a fishing trip with them. I could waffle on about the majesty of Jaisalmer Fort or the Brahmin-blue walls of Jodhpur, but it was always the small things that ended up being the most special. Watching the Hindi film Mary Kom at the Raj Mandir (a grand old cinema built in 1976), was definitely a highlight. Even though, as a foreigner, I didn’t understand a word of it.
Sure, you could be boiling in the mid-day heat, battling over a 20 rupee difference between silk scarves before rushing to the next tourist attraction. Or, you could be sitting in the old picture house laughing with the locals. But it’s really worth it.
What do you really want to see?
The Amber Fort, Jaipur
3. Where do I get my bangles?
When people think of shopping in Rajasthan they often visualise great gem emporiums, exquisite camel-wool carpets and an abundance of 100% pashmina scarves. But it is hard to know what to get where in a state of 32 districts. The most important thing to remember: do not be fooled by paying high prices. Bargaining is the key.
Pushkar has the best variety of gifts at low prices for budgeting backpackers- that’s you, right? Good, because this is where I had my biggest spree. Bottles of perfume from 150 Rs, silver chains, toe rings, and anklets for under 500 Rs, and beautifully hand-decorated jewellery boxes. The souvenir camel leather notebooks and bo-ho clothing that is sold all over the place were also significantly cheaper in Pushkar’s bazaars. Thousands of stones are available for as little as 100 Rs, so you can pick and choose your own and take it to the nearest silver shop to get it welded into a style of your choice. Or, even better, do it yourself at a workshop with a nearby silversmith.
Do your research. I paid 100 Rs for a bangle that was worth 10 Rs because I didn’t check the price anywhere else and was adamant about starting my collection there and then. Impatience! I also bought a ton of wooden bangles in bulk because I liked the design, only to discover that they were incredibly delicate and every day one would snap off my wrist. Try before you buy. If you want longer-lasting bangles, pay a bit more and get metal ones.
And just for the record, you can get your bangles pretty much anywhere.
Pushkar’s shopping bazaars
4. Stay by the water
Water enhances beauty everywhere, and there is no end to the amount of trembling temple reflections or lake palaces rising from the glassy liquid mirrors in Rajasthan. Famously, this is the backdrop for 1983 James Bond film Octopussy, and the popular Comedy Romance, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, which attracts honeymooners to Udaipur. They privately gaze at the view of the sunset mirage from rooftop restaurants, over a glass of wine. Bit too glamorous? Simply sitting on the bridge with a cup of street chai, watching the buildings shimmer and dance on the surrounding water, will enchant you. You can also take day trips away from the main tourist centre to other less crowded sites. Just 30 minutes away, is Tiger Lake. It may not be the heart of India’s natural wonderland, but surrounded by small mountain valleys, many groups come out here to swim, sunbathe and drink beer (just be prepared to be ogled at in your bathing suits, girls). At night, you should be careful of the police. They frequently patrol the area when it gets dark and banish anyone behaving ‘inappropriately.’
For something less glamorous and far cosier, I would recommend Pushkar - wrapped around a small Holy lake where Hindus frequently make offerings from the surrounding Ghats. Here, you’ll feel right at home in the backpacker community. Visitors are encouraged to take part in Puja (prayer offering), being offered leaf-bowls of flowers, incense and a candle to light and float it across the water. It’s a good thing to do once or twice (if you haven’t already been in places like Varanasi or Haridwar first), but make sure you don’t get ripped off. Be assertive if you are not interested. You have to remove your shoes before walking on the ghats, I suggest you carry them with you before a monkey snatches them.
Stepping on bird-poo is completely unavoidable. Arguably, the best time to see the lake is very early or later in the day, watching the sun glide over the horizon. But one of my best experiences was to walk around the water at night, watching prayers at the lakeside temples, free of hassle. It’s best not to do this alone though.
Local boy playing with poi by the sunset point on Pushkar’s lake
5. What on earth is a Bhang Lassi?
These infamous curd beverages are not unique to Rajasthan but are readily available. Simply walk over to the man who’s ecstatically yelling “Special lassi, full power, 24-hour, no food, no shower!” and in a matter of minutes you’ll be united with this infamous, devilish drink. Bhang, the liquid drawn from a female weed plant, is mixed with the well-known curd drink, lassi, to form this knock-out blend. I say knock-out because that is exactly what happens. Three hours after consuming it I started to give up hope, grumpily complaining to my friend “It’s not working.” 20 minutes later, I had face-planted a plate of dhal and unexpectedly called it an early night at 7:30pm. It was a straight 15 hour sleep. Overall, the effect may take a while to kick in, but the strength of these drinks should not be underestimated.
6. Don’t miss out on traditional Rajasthani Thali
You know by now that Thali (food platter) is different everywhere, so it’s vital that you keep trying it over and over again (well that’s what I keep telling myself) Rajasthani Thali is probably the best I’ve had so far. Five curries, three types of naan and the addictive treat known as sweet churma are the highlights of this tantalising platter, which also includes the usual mountain of rice, spicy chutney and fried papad. As is the tradition with Thali, you eat until you are full. Actually, the etiquette of free re-fills is almost redundant when you already have so much on your plate. But, it is hard to resist saying no to such a variety of flavours, even when you are on the brink of a food baby.
Just shove it in. Using a knife and fork when eating a Thali is like making a phone call with two hands. Simply roll the rice and curry into a ball and use your thumb as a spoon to get it down ya. Don’t worry about the mess- it’s part of the experience and you can deal it afterwards. Most importantly, wash your hands before.
7. Make the most out of the desert terrain
In late October, to early November, Pushkar is over-run with thousands of tourists here, to see the famed Camel Fair (for a good reason, I expect). But not everyone wants to get their camel thrills through a vortex of Go-Pro poles and DSLR lenses. If you really want to immerse yourself in the dunes, go to Jaisalmer. The Golden City is the best place to start your desert safari, trekking through the dunes on a camel and camping overnight. For all you rupee-saving squatters, it is cheaper to book your ticket in Khuri Bari (40kms from Jaisalmer).
8. Getting to know the locals
As a solo-travelling female, exercise some caution with who you trust. This doesn’t mean don’t make friends. All over Rajasthan, the local people were some of the most selflessly helpful, generous, and sensitive to potentially vulnerable individuals. But hitching a lift at night to the train station on the back of a random motorbike can land you in some awkward situations. So I’ve discovered. In hindsight, this naivety could have led to a far more serious incident, and I am lucky the person involved was only pleading to kiss my hand.
This isn’t just about men, either. One minute I am standing with my shopping bag in Pushkar’s main market, the next a girl, sporting a nose ring the size of a thin bracelet, grabs my hand and splatters it with henna juice. By the time I realise what’s going on, it’s too late. The messy design of flowers crawl up my wrist, knuckles and fingers, while the girl starts demanding a 500 rupee charge. She is one of the Kalbeliya girls (gypsies), camped on the outskirts of the town. This is her livelihood. You don’t have to walk about with your hands inside your Aladdin pants 24/7, but when a large group of women wearing gypsy dresses approach offering to shake your hand, know their intention.
Of course, it is the furry-faced, banana-loving clan of tail-swingers that are usually the biggest pests. Everywhere, nuisance monkeys slide from cobweb wires, hanging like ugly tinsel. They may look ‘cute’ but unless you want a swollen finger, keep clear of the cheeky buggers!
When people ask Alice what she is doing with her life, she tells them “This.” She is a traveller, teaching Yoga where wanderlust takes her and blogging about the journey, the people and the culture that inspires her to keep going. Her favourite things are whatever will fit in her backpack from incense to iPods and of course, her beloved Yoga mat. She strongly believes a world without cockroaches would be a far better place. You can contact her by visiting through Facebook (Alice McGuigan) or on her Twitter @Guigsies.
Alice McGuigan – who has written 1 posts on WAH Blog.
